HERB-501 Lessons

Year Five, Lesson Three
Preview of Dangerous and Difficult Plants

Introduction

Good, good! It seems you all remembered to come to Greenhouse Seven today. In fact, you’re going to get in the habit of dropping by this greenhouse, as we will be spending quite a few weeks here. This is due to the sheer number and variety of Class B: Physically Aggressive and similar plants - we have quite the cornucopia to cover. I’m sure these plants will keep you on your toes. Speaking of which, before we enter the greenhouse today, we ought to have a chat about safety precautions.

Take Cover

Unlike odorous poisonous plants, there isn’t any specific tool, piece of clothing, or equipment that you should have on your person for dealing with the hazards these plants present -- except for your wand, of course! I should hope you don’t go anywhere without that. True, wearing a full suit of armor might be helpful in some situations, but that’s a bit silly and would limit your mobility, which can be irritating or even dangerous. Plus, it’s simply not necessary in most cases. 

Instead, I advise you to arm yourselves with vigilance today and to pay attention to your surroundings. Have your wand within reach, and don’t be dozing off in case something comes bounding towards you! Fortunately, we are in a large group here, so we have safety in numbers, provided no one tries to wander off on their own. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t any tips and tricks of the trade for each plant -- more specific instructions for each that we cover today will be forthcoming! For now, please keep alert and speak up if something is awry. Most of the plants you will see today pose no real threat of death, but that’s no reason to get lazy. Follow me closely!

Violets, Violets...and More!

As you can see from the specimens around us, the moniker “physically aggressive” covers many different behaviors. There are stems that strangle, plants that punch, blooms that bite, and even flowers that purposefully seek out meat. The ones we are covering today run the entire gamut; I have tried to include a little bit of everything for your introduction to Class B plants… except for trees. That interesting phenomena is a lesson unto itself! Ah, here we are at our first stop.

Bouncing Bulbs

Our first plant today is also our least dangerous, the Bouncing Bulb, also known as the Boffing Bulb and by other similar names. They have a wide range of growth, with some as small as your fist and others nearly as large as a First Year (and quite a bit rounder). These vibrant purple growths hang off of vivid green, leafy stems which are quite elastic, allowing for the “bulbs” to spring up at a moment’s notice and give unsuspecting students quite the smack. They can be rather mischievous. Of course, any of you who have been paying attention in class know that these are not really bulbs. True bulbs grow underground and are an alternative to seeds when planting an herb. However, they do look quite similar, depending on the size of the specimen. When young, these plants usually stay on the stem, bouncing around as far as their connection to the stem allows, but as they reach maturity, they often detach themselves on their own and have a habit of wandering around afterwards. Detached Bouncing Bulbs rarely live for long, but there are some that seem -- at least under preliminary study -- to be rather self-reliant for a time, seeking out puddles for water, the amount of sunlight they prefer, and anything else they need. 

To care for Solanum elasticum, soil of a roughly neutral pH (from 6.5 to 7.5) and full sun is the ideal goal. The plants also respond well to both fertilizer and centaur tears, though if you water them with centaur tears you will need to water much less frequently and only when the soil is dry, rather than keeping it constantly moist. With those notes out of the way, though, many herbologists avoid providing completely perfect conditions, or heavily prune back the plants’ growth in order to keep the bulbs from getting too large. There is a bit of science to growing the largest Bouncing Bulb you can, while still making sure they do not get large enough to detach from their plants. Particularly if they’re to be used for potion-making, growing larger specimens is beneficial, but not if they start running amok and you have to, ahem, deal with them.

On that topic, let’s discuss plant management. When disturbed, Bouncing Bulbs usually fly up towards the nearest person or thing, which can cause damage to face and furnishings. It is best to keep breakable things -- potion bottles, family heirlooms, etc. -- out of the immediate vicinity of any of these plants. Of course, being in a greenhouse usually does mean being surrounded by glass, so occasionally an Unbreakable Charm is cast on the panes surrounding the purple menace. Because the stem of the plant is rather elastic, more often than not these attempts to bounce around or knock into things do not detach the bulb from the plant, as the stem provides a natural “leash.” However, if it should come free, you will likely need to keep it from bouncing after you. The Knockback Jinx should easily deter it, though the spell will likely kill the plant, and it will immediately need to be harvested if it is to be used for potions. Other similar impeding spells will usually work as well, but use anything too powerful and you’ll be left with a pulpy mess.

Mitigating the hazards of larger Bouncing Bulbs requires more firepower, literally. I personally recommend the Fire-Making Charm to subdue the plant, as the Knockback Jinx will only temporarily deter it. I don’t typically suggest setting plants on fire willy-nilly, but if you are faced with an aggressive purple growth your same weight and height suddenly hurtling towards you, it may be your only defense. Like before, this usually kills the plant, so be sure to harvest immediately after, and try to peel away the outer burned sections, as this can tamper with the effects of the plant if used in potion making. Please also be careful of any additional flames you cause - you don’t want to burn down your begonias, whose only crime is being nearby. You need to be accurate!

Finally, let’s get to the uses. Most typically, the fleshy bulb is used in potions to increase energy or in the Elasticizing Potion and other similar brews. However, it is also used in other specialty preparations, such as the Pompion Potion, while the greenery of this plant is used in gentler versions of arthritis-curing brews. Other than Uric the Oddball’s initial (failed) attempts to harness these bulbs as masseuses, there is not much more to cover! Onto the next grouchy green.

Devil’s Snare

Grown all over the world, it is uncertain where this plant originally came from due to similar descriptions of strangling plants from many countries throughout history. However, while it is found on any continent (except the obvious) that is hospitable enough to grow plants, it is only found in certain climates within that continent, namely very dark, damp places. You would be most likely to find Devil’s Snare in a cave, a shadowy swamp, or buried under the shade of many plants in a tropical rainforest. Its vivid green tendrils topped with wide leaves are rarely a giveaway in the dark, and all too often travelers don’t realize what the plant is until they are already ensnared. Providing a height is rather useless, as the plant is much more of a horizontal grower, spreading its tendrils ever farther along cave and forest floors. However, as you can see from the sample plant I have here, the juvenile plants do stick up a bit before the sheer weight and size of the tendrils begin to weigh them down.  As a final note, Devil’s Snare does not produce seeds, so to grow a specimen of your own, you will need to take a cutting of another.

In its juvenile state, it appears very similar to Flitterbloom, a harmless house plant that also sports green tendrils. Both of these plants have the tendency to gently wave as well, as if their stems are being blown by the breeze. The main difference is that if you touch a juvenile Devil’s Snare, it will immediately lock its nearest tendrils around your wrist, or whatever part of the body it can reach, whereas the Flitterbloom will simply continue to sway in the non-existent breeze. Another way to tell that is slightly less hazardous is to examine the leaf shape. The leaf of the Flitterbloom is simple and forms a vaguely oval shape much like leaves you might doodle in the margins of your herbology essays. A leaf from Devil’s Snare, however, is lobed and split into three sections, like so.

If grown under suitable conditions -- the dark and damp -- you could leave Devil’s Snare to grow on its own without any intervention. However, since our greenhouses are not usually as damp or as dark as caves, there is a little more to it than that. There has been no noticeable correlation between any type of soil pH and improved growing, so any soil will do! However, it does need the dark. As Second Years, I took you on a brief field trip to Greenhouse Two to look at all sorts of nocturnal plants, and I told you that Devil’s Snare, among others, cannot tolerate any sunlight (I have brought this young bush over temporarily, as it is much more at home in the dark recesses of Greenhouse Two). This is a bit of an exaggeration, as they can tolerate some very dim light as long as it is not directly hitting any part of the plant, and a Darkening Charm would not go amiss just in case. This is particularly true of juvenile specimens, as they are not quite so intolerant to light in the first stages of life. As long as you water this plant frequently, even letting small amounts of water pool on the surface of the soil, your Devil’s Snare should do just fine. 

But how does one water a plant that is incredibly likely to strangle you if it notices you’re there? Well, make sure it can’t tell you’re there, naturally! Devil’s Snare works similar to a spider in its web. If it notices a disturbance, it will investigate by attempting to wrap its tendrils around where it sensed the movement. If there is further struggle, it will latch on tighter and, if possible, wrap more of its viney tendrils around the panicking prey. The trick is simply to keep still. If you brush the plant and it starts investigating, let it wrap a thin tendril around your wrist and simply wait. When there is no more opposition, the tendril will automatically loosen and recede. It is rather time-consuming, and it does require some steely nerves to not react when a thin whip-like object suddenly wraps around you. Of course, many herbologists will opt to simply water the plant from afar with the Aguamenti Charm, another water spell, automatic systems, or a levitating watering can, but sometimes there is no substitute for rolling up your sleeves and getting in there.

Now, if you’re going to grow Daemonium tendiculae, you’d best know how to defend yourself from it in case it gets too big for its britches! In some cases, particularly when Devil’s Snare grows very large, it is difficult to keep your composure and remain perfectly still and relaxed, especially if there is a stray tendril around your windpipe! In these cases, you or a partner should be ready to cast any fire-making spell you have handy or anything to simulate direct sunlight. This will make the plant recede immediately and, in the case of the former, may injure the plant to avoid further attacks in the near future. Of course, it’s not excellent for the plant’s growth, but at times like those, that is not the highest priority! 

Devil's Snare has some interesting uses, to be sure, and not just ones related to potions! It is used to protect or guard an area from unwanted trespassers -- though the Ministry of Herbology and other related ministerial departments see to it that none are too near Muggle areas --  or even as a weapon. As far as properties, the plant is excellent in potions that improve the circulatory system, as well as in potions dealing with impotence. In particular, the leaves of this plant can be dried and used in the Vein-Clearing Cordial. 

Fanged Geraniums

Native originally to Europe and eventually to parts of Asia, the Fanged Geranium is a toothy plant with a red or pink flower. The fang-like teeth usually develop in the center of the bloom, but there can be variations in terms of placement and appearance. Its green stalks rarely make it past four feet naturally, though they are rather responsive to magic, which leads to interesting results. Geranium dentatis requires soil with a pH from 5.8 to 6.3, and prefers partial to full sun. Also, as you will note, they are in beds and pots that allow for drainage, as while they need constantly moist soil, they do not like standing in soggy soil. This perennial herb typically blooms in the summer or spring months, and the flowers and fangs are harvested at this time. As mentioned, this plant is especially receptive to magic and tends to require some extra oomph, whether it be in the form of the Plant Growth Charm, dragon dung fertilizer, or centaur tears.

Specific dangers regarding the Fanged Geranium are manifold. This plant is actually dually classified when it comes to W.H.I.P.S. classes: it is both physically aggressive and poisonous. Those teeth pack quite a punch! Fortunately, as long as your plant stays within the normal four feet limit, its teeth never grow big enough to do much damage, and simply wearing dragonhide gloves should protect your hands nicely. However, if other parts of your body are covered with only thin layers of protection -- like your robes -- or if the plant gets too large, you may well have a problem on your hands. It is only a level two toxicity plant, and one bite is unlikely to be lethal, but please do visit the hospital wing after receiving a bite, as you will not enjoy the side effects of the poison running its course. These include large amounts of swelling around the bite, a greenish tinge to the affected area, nausea, and headaches. 

This plant also receives a Class B rating, because unlike many Class C plants, Fanged Geraniums will actively attempt to bite you and inflict their poison. They are not necessarily carnivores, but a chunk of skin, an unwary bug or beetle, or even a bit of gnome might get accidentally gobbled. Their reach is understandably limited by their height, but if they notice something brushing up near them, they will attempt to bite it no matter what it is, which causes issues for tending when this plant is in bloom.

To care for a Fanged Geranium without receiving a nasty bite takes some planning ahead. Some herbologists take the route of offering it a “dummy,” such as an extra dragonhide glove lying around stuffed with something to make it thicker and more of a mouthful. Others simply attempt to do all the caring without touching the plant at all, using a host of spells like the Levitation Charm, the Severing Charm, and watering spells. As one final note about care, we’ll talk about harvesting. Because of their uses, many herbologists grow Fanged Geraniums to harvest the fangs themselves. However, be sure not to simply sever the teeth out of a live blossom. Not only is it safer to remove the flower first, but Fanged Geraniums that have been de-fanged while alive tend to wither and not produce any buds or blossoms the next year, despite the fact that they’re perennials.

Speaking of the fangs, they have quite a few uses. First, when ground, they’re used in recipes for top-notch stain removers. In addition, fangs are a key ingredient in the Tooth-Pointing Potion and potions that treat flu symptoms. The fangs are also used sparingly to give a potion some extra oomph, though randomly adding potion ingredients to your cauldron without guidance is not recommended when you are only Fifth Years! Petals from the Fanged Geranium may be used in salads, can improve kidney function, and have a high iron value. Currently, there are no known uses for the leaves.

Spiky Bush

Also called Prickly Plants, Spiky Bushes are a little rough around the edges, literally. The green bush sports either yellow or white spines that serve as projectiles, and these plants have quite an extreme range, let me tell you! This is particularly true of larger specimens, which can grow to heights of five feet tall. The range of these plants is quite alarming, and I’m afraid there is no official way to calculate the distance a given plant’s spines can cover, as it depends on many factors. It is best to err on the side of caution and be prepared. It is native to Europe, but now grows in the wild in some areas of Asia and Australia due to population spread. Now, saying that the plant is five feet tall and has spines does not entirely cover its appearance and makeup. It grows horizontally as well, and larger specimens can reach three feet in diameter. Additionally, the name “Spiky Bush” is yet another misnomer among common names, just like lilies that are not lilies, ferns that are not ferns, and other similar lazily named plants. The plant is not actually made up of many woody branches like a bush or shrub normally is, but instead the green center portion is one solid piece. In the very middle there is a thin, sap-like fluid, but the majority of the plant is made up by the outer skin, which is quite thick and a bit rubbery. For this reason, “Prickly Plant” is a more accurate name, though not as popular. 

As a note, while these plants are annual herbs, they spread voraciously, and the population in a given area can become quite dense. The reason for this is that the spines that shoot out from the bush are the plant’s means of reproduction, and therefore a single plant can spawn dozens of young. Of course, not every single spine lands in fertile areas or grows, but the possibility is there. To care for this plant, you will need soil of a moderately alkaline base (8.5 to 9.0), very little sun (partial or full shade, ideally), and lots of water. Because it dies off every year and is all one single unit, you will never need to prune or deadhead it, so care is quite basic… that is, if you can get to the plant.

Spiky Bushes actively use their spines as a weapon without provocation, and seem to be able to propel and direct them with startling accuracy, hence they are both a magical and Class B plant. They are also, in some way or some combination of ways, able to sense when people come within the reach of their spines. Put in a more meaningful way, they are somehow aware of the distance they can shoot their spines, are able to recognize where you are without a brain or eyes to see, and are able to calculate very accurately when you enter the radius that their spikes can reach. The Spiky Bush -- along with many others like the Whomping Willow and mandrake -- is the best case that herbologists make for plants’ sentience, which we discussed in your First Year. Please be aware, though, that sentience does not imply intelligence. It is just the ability to feel and perceive things, and very simple, non-intelligent creatures like Flobberworms or Trollwigs are also sentient. The opposition to the sentience argument notes that Spiky Bushes also have very complex root systems that coincidentally happen to line up with the radius that the spikes can reach, so it may only be a simple matter of the plant sensing minute “tremors” in the ground caused by footsteps of heavy creatures. For this reason, many herbologists keep these plants under a Containment Charm so their roots cannot spread past a known point, or attempt to keep them in jars, though this is rather difficult due to how quickly they grow.

Whatever the case -- and perhaps it’s both at once -- there is one particularly handy spell you need to know in order to avoid the plant’s spines: the Dampening Charm. This charm, when cast, will allow you to figuratively tiptoe through the tulips, as it temporarily causes the ground beneath you not to vibrate as much, to the point where the Spiky Bush cannot sense you. In oversimplified terms, it decreases your weight. There are limitations, of course. It requires a fair bit of concentration and willpower to cast, since the effect usually needs to spread both deep down and wide. Moreover, no matter how much willpower you are able to muster up, this spell hasn’t ever been made to last more than fifteen, maybe twenty minutes. Just cast the spell on the desired area of ground (erring on the side of caution -- you don’t want to wrongly assume the plant’s affected area and end up in a sticky situation). For the average Fifth Year, you should need high concentration and low willpower, though keep in mind that the more willpower you can muster, the longer the spell will last. You can see the spell’s details here.

Whoops, it seems I let time get away from me a bit there. Let’s wrap this lesson up, shall we? Some final notes on Spiky Bushes: once you have cast this spell, it will be safe to approach the plant and do what needs to be done, though very little other than watering is necessary. If the worst should happen and you are struck by a spine (or accidentally graze one up close), all you’ll have to contend with is some pain and some lacerations. While this may not be terribly comforting, at least they are not poisonous! You will still want to wear your goggles and dragonhide gloves just as insurance for those wayward projectiles, though! And, if all else fails, simply ducking or jumping out of the way may do the trick.

The Spiky Bush is not used in many potions, but it does have some other interesting uses. For example, if the “bush” (the rubbery outer skin) of the plant is consumed, it will cause the user’s ears and hands to grow to enormous proportions. More usefully, its spines can reduce the effects of some poisons and help with liver function when combined in potions.

Closing

That does it for our first lesson on Class B plants. Next week, it’s a case of “same time, same place” as we continue your discovery of these feisty plants. Before then, you have your traditional homework assignments as well as your review assignment on the content from Third Year. Quite the light week! If you have questions, however, do not hesitate to reach out.

Original lesson written by Professor Lily Tudor

Additional portions written by Professor Venita Wessex

Image credits here, here, here, here, and here