HERB-401 Lessons

Year Four, Lesson Five 
Professions and Plants

Introduction
Gather ‘round, class. I know you likely expected to go back to abstract concepts today, but I have quite the surprise for you! Today will be another smorgasbord of plants. We will be discussing different kinds of common European wandwoods, as wand-crafting is yet another professional area that overlaps with herbology. More, identifying wandwoods is not useful just for wandmakers. Carpenters, inventors of magical gadgets, and even professional duelists (just to name a few) could benefit from the knowledge of these wizarding woods. Enough of the introductions, though! There are simply too many plants to cover today to tarry much longer -- and I’m sure you don’t want to delay your midterm!

Wandwood Basics
While I am not a wandmaker myself and certainly don’t have the in-depth knowledge of an Ollivander or a Gregorovitch, I can most certainly equip you for the herbological side of the profession, which may be of interest to you. Very few wandmakers actually grow their own trees, owing to multiple issues. There are so many different kinds, they take so long to grow, and there is no way of knowing which seed or sapling will blossom into a specimen of wandwood quality. Instead, wandmakers usually harvest their wood from trees in the area or potentially outsource the task to others. This means there is most certainly a market for herbologists or herbological knowledge in wandmaking, particularly with regards to identifying different species of trees as well as if a tree is magical -- and therefore capable of producing wand-quality wood -- or not. 

Yes, nearly every tree has the potential to be magical, just like every human being. We’re not entirely sure why some are magical and some aren’t, but it’s certainly a topic of interest to wandmakers and herbologists alike. So, to go over the entire list of possible tree types and useful information about them would be exhausting! Therefore, we will only touch on the most common trees native to our own continent, as it is typical for wandmakers to use local wandwoods rather than importing them. Still, this is quite the list!

Magical Roots
But what makes a yew tree of wand-quality wood look different from a regular, non-magical yew tree? Well, quite simply put, nothing. That’s the most difficult part of the whole process. Granted, there are some signs, but nothing quite so concrete as different coloured leaves or iridescent bark. 

Those of you who took Care of Magical Creatures or Defense Against the Dark Arts will know of one surefire way to tell if a tree is magical or not: the presence of Bowtruckles. These prickly tree guardians only roost in trees of wand-quality wood, and therefore their presence is the only known guarantee that the average-looking tree in front of you is the right one. On occasion, a bunch of Bowtruckles will move on from a tree, but this does not mean the tree has stopped being magical! As long as you can remember where the tree was, you can still be sure of its pedigree.

The other way is much more difficult and less dependable. This ties into both how wandmakers seem to be able to “listen” to wands and how Bowtruckles instinctively know which trees to inhabit. Magic, no matter what form it takes, has its own sort of footprint. You may be able to feel the difference when you walk into the greenhouses versus taking a stroll in a field of average wildflowers. Some describe it as a sort of buzz in the air. Bowtruckles, and many other magical creatures or beings, can detect this more easily than we can, but we are able to as well. Much of this ability has to do with experience and time spent among magical plants, and you can go your whole life without discovering the ability to distinguish between magical and non-magical plants. However, if this is a topic that interests you, I invite you to spend some time in the greenhouses simply soaking in the atmosphere and practicing some of that meditation that Professor Penrose is so fond of! You may be surprised at the results.

Finally, one thing to note is that any completely magical species of tree, whether created by wizardkind or naturally occuring, will always produce wand-quality wood. Fortunately, that means no one needs to sit and meditate near the Whomping Willow to see if they can feel its magic! Though you’re still welcome to try from a safe distance if you so choose. 

Seeing the Forest for the Trees
The other part of being able to provide wandwood for wandmakers is being able to tell which tree is which. For the rest of the lesson, we will go over numerous trees common to England and the greater area of Europe, focusing on how to visibly discern one from another. I will also attempt to include any pertinent magical uses other than that of wandwood. 

Alder (Alnus glutinosa) 
This tree flourishes on river banks or other wet areas and grows to roughly 100 feet tall (30 metres). Its soil is best between 5.5 and 7.2, on the acidic side of the scale, and it survives best in full to partial sun. It has mottled, ashy gray bark with a jagged appearance. It may also have fruits dangling from its branches in the form of small, red, vaguely cone-like berries. It has single leaves that are alternate, rather than opposite. 

In addition to its use in wandmaking, the bark of this tree can be used in various potions that rejuvenate the drinker after prolonged illness or exposure to curses, as well as in tooth-whitening serums. The seeds are also used in a potion patented recently to completely eradicate the bacteria that causes pneumonia.

Apple (Malus pumila)
Growing, at its tallest, to 30 feet (9 metres), this little tree is easily identifiable during the late summer and fall due to its distinctive fruit. However, when it is not in season, apple trees are best identified by their alternating single leaves with slightly soft undersides. The ideal pH is on the acidic side as well, at 5.5 to 6.5, with full sun and an infrequent watering schedule.

Other than its fruits’ obvious culinary uses, apple blossoms are used in some topical potions for those with delicate skin or with numerous allergies, as it helps soothe the skin or protect against other irritants present in the brews. Its bark is also used in herbal preparations alongside rosemary to help with heartburn, and it is even a substitution (though infrequent) in the Stomach Strengthening Solution. 

Ash (Fraxinus excelsior)
Ash trees, like alders and many others we will cover in this lesson, are actually a group of 45 to 60 related species, the most widespread in England being the common, or European, ash. They are medium to large trees, growing, at their tallest, up to 140 feet (43 metres) tall. More commonly, they reach a height of roughly 60 feet (18 metres). They are known for their long, thin, compound leaves, but even more so for their seeds, which grow opposite each other and often spin down to the earth like propellers as they fall. As a note, if you've never had the opportunity to study leaf patterns and shapes, you'll have the chance to explore this more in your assignments at the end of class!

While they can grow in nearly any pH, they prefer well-drained soils on the sunny sides of hills, as they need at least six hours of sunlight per day. Their uses are limited in the magical world, though they have many applications in solely herbal preparations, particularly to help with the end stages of digestion.

Aspen (Populus tremula)
Here, things get a bit complicated, as I have to go over two different trees by the same name. In non-magical circles, Populus tremula is the name for the quaking aspen tree. However, at Hogwarts and in other magical circles, to avoid confusion, we call it the European aspen or common aspen. This is because there is a magical variety of quaking aspen (Populus tremula magus) that was bred by Virgil Meristem that does indeed literally quake. To note, the magical tree will always produce wood of wand-quality, whereas its non-magical counterpart has the same odds as any other tree. 

Obviously a tree that tries to withdraw from sight (as much as a 130 foot tall tree with strong roots can move, that is) and trembles when anyone other than familiar faces approaches is quite easy to identify, so we won’t be going over much detail regarding its physical characteristics. Its appearance is similar to many other aspen species, particularly the non-magical European aspen, as it is upon this species that the magical hybrid was based. For care, Populus tremula magus requires much less sunlight than its contemporaries -- usually partial shade is preferable -- and a batch of Calming Draught is required alongside regular watering in slightly acidic or neutral soil. You can taper off the potion as it reaches maturity, but not until it is past the sapling stage. 

As far as the non-magical variety, the common aspen requires full sun in similar soil -- a pH of roughly 5.5 to 7.5 -- as well as regular watering. It can be identified by its catkins, pictured to the right, as well as rounded, fan-shaped leaves.

In potions, the magical variety is used to induce panic and unease, whereas its non-magical counterpart is used for opposite reasons in herbal preparations. Aspen bark of both varieties is used in potions to help with sciatica, a condition dealing with back and leg pain due to damage to the sciatic nerve. 

Elder (Sambucus nigra)
Elder trees also have around 25 to 30 species, with Sambucus nigra, or the elderberry tree, being the variety we will cover today. The leaves are pinnate (leaves arranged on the side in pairs) with five to seven leaflets. The tree’s branches may have small white flowers or blackish berries depending on the stage and time of year, and if it is a more mature tree, its bark will have deep creases. They need at least six hours of light and lots of water, but are not fussy about the pH level of their soil.

As far as their uses in magic, elder trees have a bit of a dark air of mystery about them due to their inclusion in the childhood story, The Tale of Three Brothers. This has led to much experimentation in potions relating to warfare and battle. While no related uses have come of these studies, the tree does see some use in treating diseases of the mouth.

Elm (Ulmus glabra)
The wych elm, also known as the Scotch elm, grows primarily along riverbeds and in areas that are heavily saturated with water, though able to drain well. It prefers full sun as well, though its soil preferences are rather basic -- anywhere between 5.0 and 8.0 will do. It grows alternate, single leaves, and during the spring months, it sports red or purple flowers on branches up to 130 feet (40 metres) high.

Elm seeds, and other parts of the tree, are used in potions to do with mining and soil treatment and find many other tangential uses concerning earth and the ground. In centuries past the seeds were also used in Confusing Concoctions, but has since been replaced with a more modern substitute with fewer negative reactions and side effects. 

Fir (Abies alba)
Found in mountainous regions all over England -- and indeed, all over Europe -- these trees can be quite the towers, growing up to 160 feet (49 metres) in most cases, though there are examples of taller specimens. The silver fir is a coniferous evergreen, meaning its leaves are, in fact, more like needles. As per their common name, their needles have a rather distinctive, almost silver tint to them, which should make them easier to spot. They prefer soil with a pH of 5.0 to 7.4 and are happy in anything from full sun to partial shade. They do need to be kept moist, so monitor and water as needed.

As far as uses, fir trees do not have many apart from its use as a wandwood and in the Accent Altering Potion. Although, I must say, it does make a lovely spruce beer for the holiday season.

Hazel (Corylus avellana)
These trees can be identified by their simple round leaves with serrated edges. They may be further identified by the catkins and dark red flowers that bloom in late winter or early spring and the nuts produced in summer. In ideal conditions of soil with a pH of 4.5 to 8.5, sparing water, and full sun, common hazels will still only reach 19 feet (6 metres) tall.

Hazel has quite the cornucopia of uses, running the gamut of helping with skin irritation and acne, fighting infections, and relieving inflammation.

Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
Actually more of a shrub than a tree, the one-seed hawthorn (also known as mayblossom and by many other names) grows to 45 feet (14 metres) tall at its largest and produces either white flowers or bright red berries, depending on the time of year. They also sport sharp thorns on the branches. The common hawthorn’s dark green leaves are deeply grooved, as you can see from the examples, and are nearly divided into separate sections. The tree prefers continuously moist soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 in full sun or partial shade. 

These have many more uses than the hazel. Various parts of the tree, including the seasonal berries and flowers, are used in many brews. Most notably, they feature in potions to aid with the circulatory system and are particularly useful in the modern variations of the Blood-Replenishing Potion. There are numerous other uses, but as always, I do not have time to give you an exhaustive list. All I can do is encourage you to do more research on your own to discover the wonders of this plant!

Holly (Ilex aquifolium)
There are numerous species of holly, but the one we are going over today should be familiar to those of you with a love for winter and all its feasts and holidays, as it is often put up around the castle to decorate. That’s right, we are talking about English holly. If you miss its shiny red berries, its alternate, glossy serrated leaves also stand out quite a bit, and because the plant is an evergreen, it is never without foliage. Typically these plants grow 10 feet (3 metres) tall in highly acidic soil -- from 3.5 to 7.2 -- that although moist, is well-drained. Finally, they do well in anything from full sun to partial shade.

Interestingly, holly is used in an assortment of ancient protection potions and rituals, some of which have lasted centuries to still be in place today. However, these uses have largely fallen out of favor, and today, holly is more commonly used in fever-relieving and anti-itching potions.

Ivy (Hedera helix)
An apt plant to cover immediately after holly, ivy is another yuletide favorite in these parts. However, as you know, ivy can be found decorating the outer walls of the castle year round. Of course, you remember our discussion of Creeping Ivy back in Year Two, and the same notes that applied to the quaking aspen and the European aspen also apply here. The magical plant is always able to produce wandwood -- if you can track it down -- whereas the common English ivy may or may not, depending on the biology of the plant. Though, it is good to note that because of its thinness, ivy is considered one of the rarer wandwoods.

Back to distinguishing them: their evergreen leaves are either spread out like the palm of a hand or vaguely heart-shaped and can be dark green or chartreuse. Flowers are usually green or yellow with five tiny petals, while the berries can be a dark purple, black, green, or yellow. They prefer partial to full sun and sparse watering in any soil, though acidic is preferred. Most importantly, you can easily spot ivy as it grows up the side of whatever it is near: trees, other plants, walls, rocks, or even abandoned flotsam and jetsam.

Common ivy, much like its magical counterpart, can be used to aid with coughs, particularly with asthma. However, it is much more well-known for its use in the popular Sobering Sip.

Oak (Quercus robur)
These trees bear acorns among their long, deeply lobed green leaves. At their tallest, they can grow to a height of 39 feet (12 metres), and are quite wide, occasionally becoming just as wide as they are tall. Their pH needs straddle the neutral mark, with an ideal range from 6.5 to 7.5. They grow best in full sun, but can get by in partial sun, though will likely be slightly stunted. Finally, their water needs are rather average, as they prefer soil that isn’t too dry -- that is, don’t let more than the superficial first few inches of the soil dry up.

The most useful part of the tree is most certainly the bark, which can be used in a number of helpful remedies, with particular emphasis on colds, flu symptoms, and coughs. It is also an ingredient in the Appetite Enhancer.

Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)
This small deciduous tree grows to roughly 15 feet (4.5 metres) and has long, thin compound leaves (or leaves that are attached in groups to the stem) that grow opposite each other on their stems. These green leaves are accompanied by white flowers and orange or red berries. Rowan trees grow in soil between roughly 5.5 and 8.0 on the pH scale and flourish in full sun. Be sure to keep the soil around the plant moist, though not waterlogged. 

The rowan, or mountain ash, is yet another plant that has a magical cousin among the many existing rowan species: the Wiggentree. Wiggentrees look very similar to their non-magical brethren, with very little to tell you whether or not it is magical beside the fact that the leaves are of a lighter colour, more towards the chartreuse end of the spectrum. Additionally, placing a regular rowan’s leaf on a wound will not immediately dull the pain, nor will holding a rowan branch help you as you attempt to penetrate wards made with Dark magic, though rarely you are in a position to test this as you harvest wandwood.

Wiggentrees are used for protection against Dark creatures and magic as well as in various healing potions, particularly for use in dulling pain. The non-magical variety, on the other hand, tends toward curing infections and festering wounds. 

Willow (Salix alba)
Finally, we come to our last plant: the white willow, native not only to England and Europe, but also Asia. This tree grows to a height of a whopping 98 feet (30 metres) and bears many branches full of long, thin leaves with their characteristic whitish sheen to the bottom. These leaves create a sort of canopy in many cases, as the branches lean and bend significantly. In the spring, you may also see them sporting yellow flowers. Willows are best grown in soil that falls between 5.5 and 8.0 on the pH scale and with at least partial sun. When in doubt about when to water your willow, overwater it, as a little too much won’t hurt it, but it cannot tolerate dry spells for too long.

Yes, I imagine you’re waiting for me to explain how Whomping Willows fit into all this. Well, Whomping Willows (Salix brutalis) -- including the very fine specimen located on our grounds -- are actually not white willows, but are more closely related to another willow species, Salix viminalis, or the basket willow, which is also present in Europe. You will notice that instead of drooping down, the leaves and branches of this plant stand straight up. 

Speaking more specifically about Salix brutalis’s origins, it is a cultivated strain whose existence grew out of magically accelerated plants augmented with potions. Salix viminalis was chosen to be the starting point after study on the many willow species’ receptiveness to magic. After decades of careful crossbreeding, the species was stable enough to pollinate itself, and you can see the final result for yourselves! As a note, even though the Whomping Willow is not the same species as the white willow, they do share nearly all the same growing and care requirements, as they are genetically quite similar. The main difference is its physically aggressive nature. Another thing to note is that saplings, or young Whomping Willows, often look like many smaller trees planted next to each other, though they eventually twine and grow together. 

The bark of the white willow is incredibly useful in both herbal preparations and potions, with its main uses centering around healing fevers and helping with stunted growth of any kind. Whomping Willows, on the other hand, are best for eyesight and potions helping with spinal issues. On a whimsical note, parts of Salix brutalis are also used in Fabian’s Flexibility Philter.

Natural Selection
Finding the right tree is only the first step in your journey to wandmaking! Before we close the lesson, I must briefly mention the best way to harvest wood from your chosen tree. First, the basics. You should never prune when trees are in full bloom! Second, you should bring something to measure wood samples with. It is far too easy to estimate incorrectly and be left with a piece of wood that is too small. With that in mind, however, don’t take more than you need. If you take too much of a tree, or prune improperly, you open it to a wide world of issues that may end up killing it. 

To properly prune a tree, be sure to make an accurate cut and practice your work with the Severing Charm. You will want to cut the branch close to the tree’s trunk, as leaving a stub makes the plants vulnerable to insects and rot. However, cutting too close -- and actually cutting into the tree trunk itself -- will delay the healing of the wound, which saps vital energy from the plant. You want to make sure your cut is just on the outer rim of the bulge that appears where branch meets trunk, also known as the “branch collar.” 

When you are done, particularly in cases when you think a tree is vulnerable, it is wise to protect it from both direct sunlight (at least for a time), using the Darkening Charm, as well as insects, using the Bug Repelling Charm. Finally, if all of your efforts to make a neat, clean, quick-healing cut have failed, and the tree is left with a problematic wound, be sure to apply Prickle’s Tree Tar. It will ensure that the wound heals properly and avoids infection from rot, disease, and pests, and it will prevent any scarring that can prohibit further growth in the area. 

Closing
Phew! And with that, the marathon is over, and sadly, so is our look at plants that are used in wandmaking. Next week, we’ll be covering how herbology can help with various creature-related careers. I don’t have much more time, but would like to briefly mention your assigned work. In addition to your midterm, there is a short quiz and two extra credit assignments: one that requires you to put  your new tree-spotting skills to the test and another that offers a brief look at more accurately identifying leaf details. Until next time, my growing students!

Original lesson written by Professor Venita Wessex
Additional portions by Professor Liv Rowan and Professor Lily Tudor
Image credits here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here