HERB-201 Lessons

Year Two, Lesson Two
Hands-on Herbology

Introduction
Welcome back, students! I hope planting your dandelions went well last week. This week we will be centering our focus on one of the largest challenges we encounter as herbologists that can negatively impact our attempts to cultivate plants: pests. As with many of our topics, we will delve into both magical and non-magical aspects of this hurdle, as not only do we grow both kinds of plants, but some pests affect both. Before we do that, however, we will look at general tips for this week’s phase of the plant life cycle: growing.

Growing
After starting out with planting last week, it is only logical that the next phase we should discuss is growing. Ideally, that’s what should be happening after you plant your herbs! However, in truth, when compared to the planting phase, the growing phase may seem a bit boring, at least in terms of the work and effort you have to put in, that is. For the plant, it is a very critical time! During the growing phase, as long as all is going well, there should be little you have to do, as long as you have done your research. The plant will be in an area that gets enough sun. You will know how often to water it. It will be in soil that will help the plant thrive. Essentially, the only thing you need to do is monitor the plant and make sure everything is going well. It may seem rather unexciting, as this phase can last for quite a while (often with a large delay before you see much growth), however, this is the point at which checking on the plant every day is most important!

As discussed in Lesson Three of last year, despite the fact that you may not need to do anything each day (as it may not require daily water or need to be pruned), making sure you check on your plants every day is the best way to ensure that you catch any issues like diseases or pest infestations before they do real damage. In both the magical and non-magical worlds, there exists a host of pesky pests that can plague your plants. The good news is that as long as you are keeping a watchful eye on your plants (despite the fact that they may not need much care), you can notice nearly any issue in a timely fashion, identify the culprit, and nip it in the bud!

Gnomes
Gnomes are an issue more commonly encountered in outdoor gardens, particularly in ones that have a large amount of magical plants. However, a greenhouse can get the occasional gnome infestation due to the creature’s propensity for tunneling. If you have plants and these pests are inhabiting your property, they will find them even if they have to tunnel for weeks! They can be quite persistent. As you have learned in both Care of Magical Creatures and Defense Against the Dark Arts, there are two ways to deal with a gnome infestation: the spin and toss method and removal via Jarvey. I have little to add in that respect; those ways are certainly proven, though both have their own distinct advantages and disadvantages. What I can add to the conversation are tips as to how to protect your greenery from gnomes in the first place, what indicates a gnome infestation, and lastly, how to salvage plants that have been damaged by gnomes.

As far as repelling gnomes, there is not much to be done. No potion or spell exists that seems to be able to keep the creatures away, or at least not with any permanence. Some more alternative-minded witches and wizards hold this as evidence to suggest that gnomes possess rare magical abilities and qualities, but as they have yet to show overt magical abilities, this is largely discounted. Whatever the case, they continue to be a pain in the petunias for gardeners and magical homeowners alike. While there is no guarantee, there does seem to be some evidence to suggest that valerian has some gnome-repelling qualities. As discussed in Lesson Five of last year, their odor repels dogs, and when a garden is ravaged by gnomes, more often than not, any valerian in the garden is left untouched. While it is not an absolutely sure-fire way to keep them out, nor does it guarantee your garden protection, it may be enough to dissuade gnomes from sampling your herbs and encourage them to move on to your neighbor’s instead!

But how do you know if you have gnomes in the first place, you may be wondering. Well, apart from the appearance of lumpy-headed hooligans running around in your garden (which is a dead give away), you can be fairly certain that your garden carnage is from gnomes if you see many holes cropping up where you haven’t dug any. Another sure sign is if the roots of your plants have completely disappeared and only a patch of upturned soil is left in their place. This means that the gnome has yanked the plant down through the ground by the roots and consumed it. However, gnomes may also simply eat away at the roots and leave the tops of the plants intact (though the plants will quickly die without their root network), in which case it is often required to dig up the plants to see what has caused the damage.

When faced with gnome issues, timing is key. The sooner you can catch the infestation, the better. They are not a terribly sly creature, and it is entirely possible to catch them before they cause much damage. Once you have cleared the area of gnomes, if you have any plants that have been munched on but left intact outside of the roots, there are a few tricks you can attempt to use. Firstly, the Growth-Starting Charm can be useful in this situation. If you recall, it is best used with bulbs (or a selection of plants that generally work well with magic), as well as in last-ditch efforts to get plants to grow. In this case, if you take no action, the rootless plants will most likely wither and die completely. However, some can be saved with expert application of the Growth-Starting Charm, which will help it regrow the roots quickly. You should be sure to take extra care of the plant in the coming days and weeks, though. As you will be expending a lot of the plant’s energy in order to regrow the roots, you will need to accelerate its watering schedule, and the application of fertilizer is highly recommended to give it those extra nutrients.

Creepy Crawlies
There are a number of insects that can infest your garden, ranging from non-magical and common, to the rare, extraordinary, and magical. We will be covering just a sample here, as fortunately, not all magical pests can live in the rather dismal climes of the United Kingdom. The next portion of the lesson will give a brief  overview of the pests you will most commonly encounter, as well as a few that are less common, but easier to deal with. Naturally, we will also cover some methods for dealing with insect infestations, should you need to!

Aphids
A common, non-magical garden pest, this insect can infest both magical and non-magical plants; it’s not picky! Unfortunately, the infestation will accelerate much quicker on magical plants, so this is something to watch out for! Aphids, or plant lice, come in a variety of species and colors depending on your area and the type of plant. However, to help you identify them, they are all very small and usually cluster on leaves or stems, giving the plant a spotted appearance. These pests can vary widely in colour, including black, brown, green, red, or nearly translucent and colorless.

Particularly a concern for those with greenhouses or indoor plants, aphids will often be attracted to humid areas, or plants that have very wet soil and are highly saturated -- yet another reason to make sure you do not overwater your plants! However, as it is very difficult to avoid humidity in a greenhouse, prevention may not be possible. Instead, you will likely need to fight back against an aphid infestation. One way is by introducing natural predators, such as ladybugs or lacewing flies (though Professor Draekon will notice if his stores of the latter are suddenly depleted). Another way, and the method that most herbologists use, is the Scouring Charm. Scourgify, if used gently and sparingly, is safe enough to use on plants without damaging them, while completely eradicating any “soft-bodied” bugs (anything without a hard exoskeleton or similar structure). The details for this spell are included below, but when casting, make sure to go easy on the willpower so as not to damage the plant itself. For a non-magical solution to the problem, gentle soaps can be combined with water and sprayed onto the afflicted areas for quick and effective treatment.

Red Spider Mites
In contrast to the last pest, red spider mites are said to actually be deterred by damp, humid conditions. This is another common, non-magical pest that can infest both magical and non-magical plants. When a plant is afflicted, it will begin to look almost “dusty” in appearance. If you get close enough, you will be able to see small reddish specks that cover the entirety of the plant, particularly on the bottoms of the leaves. Like aphids, these can spread quickly, and you may find your entire stock of plants affected if you do not take swift action. Fortunately, the treatment for removing the spider mites is the same as that for aphids as well. Simply treat the plants with the Scouring Charm or its non-magical counterparts as needed until the infestation is under control.

Beetles
Beetles of all sorts, while often beautiful or exotic-looking, can be annoying to those who work with plants. However, beetles typically present a different concern than the last two pests we have discussed. With aphids and red spider mites, the issue was immediate infestation via quick reproduction. Beetles, on the other hand, are more of a nuisance than an immediate danger. Still, they are quite serious. For example, a chewed-through fruit cannot be eaten and a leaf that has been nibbled is unsuitable for potion-making (and general consumption). Additionally, beetles can transmit diseases which are able to kill entire fields of plants, one of which we will discuss next week.

When dealing with plants afflicted with beetles, the simplest method is to remove the specific leaves or portions that have been chewed by the offending insects, then remove the beetles themselves. Unlike the previous two pests, these are big enough to spot and pick up between a gloved thumb and forefinger to remove them or trap them in nets. To cut down on time chasing around bothersome beetles, herbologists -- myself included -- will often stun, freeze, or otherwise impede the movement of the bugs so they are easier to catch.

Botany Butterfly
Also commonly referred to as a Chlorophillar, the Botany Butterfly is the first magical insect we are investigating today. This pest is a concern when growing any plants that fit our definition of magical as defined in Year One, Lesson Four. This insect is problematic only in its larval form (as a caterpillar). As you may know, caterpillars must stock up on food in order to have enough energy for their transformation into a butterfly. Typically, this results in many chewed leaves, a fat caterpillar, and an eventual chrysalis. However, this insect’s transformation is quite different. It stays in its chrysalis for an inordinately long time -- approximately three months -- and during this time harnesses the power of photosynthesis in order to make its food. It is uncertain how and why this first occurred, but researchers assume this development is due to a reaction between the magic and photosynthesizing properties of magical plants, and potentially the genetic structure of this insect, which ultimately imbued the Chlorophillars with the temporary ability to use the energy from the sun. The final product is quite spectacular, resulting in butterflies with wings that look like flower petals or leaves, which bear coloration and markings very similar to the plant that they consumed the most during their time in their larval form.

Fortunately, as you can see by the image above, Chlorophillars are easy to spot, though can occasionally camouflage themselves in greenery. Once you have located the offender, simply remove them. They are not in any way vicious and will likely curl up to protect themselves, if they react at all. The real trick is to find another food source for them so they don’t eventually find their way back. For students at Hogwarts, I recommend giving them to myself, or Headmistress Oshiro, so that we can safely deposit them in the Forbidden Forest, which is home to many magical plants. As for your affected plants, simply prune and remove any leaves, flowers, or stems that have been eaten (a process we will go over next week). Usually, the damage is not enough to kill the plant and just requires you to thin it out a bit.

Chizpurfles
Magical pests that feed on scraps of magic as well as electricity (though only when the former is not available), Chizpurfles are incredibly small, but incredibly problematic. Their uncanny ability to sniff out magical objects from a mile away is equaled only by their enormous appetite. They are a bane to potion brewers if they slip into a brewing station, as they will slurp up any potions they find and leave nothing behind. They’re problematic for breeders, creature handlers, and researchers as well; they can be found in the feathers and fur of magical creatures, sucking away at their blood, almost like ticks. Magical plants are no exception. They will happily devour an entire magical plant, root to petals, in the blink of an eye. Poisonous plants are no deterrent, as they are not affected.

As you might expect, the earlier you catch them, the fewer plants you will lose. Sadly, Chizpurfles will rarely leave anything behind, so there will be no saving your plants to grow another day. If there is one silver lining though, the Chizpurfle will leave all non-magical plants alone. As far as magical plants go, there are quite a few pesticide potions that can either ward off or eradicate Chizpurfle infestations like Purfle Poof! and Chiswick’s Chizpurfle Chaser that can be purchased in Diagon Alley, though Hogwarts students have no need as I make sure we keep our greenhouses covered.

Flesh-Eating Slugs
The bane of many a gardener’s existences, Flesh-Eating Slugs can tear right through a patch of prized pumpkins in less than a week. They have voracious appetites, but fortunately are limited by their speed, or lack thereof. Regular slugs are also problematic, however, they are much more easily dealt with. Flesh-Eating Slugs, as you might have guessed from their name, cannot only eat through plant life, but animals as well.

They exude an acid that can eat away at flesh, softening it so it can be more easily chewed and digested. Should this acid come into contact with your skin, you’ll need to go to the hospital wing immediately! Dragon hide gloves should provide you with adequate protection for your hands if you want to remove them from your plants by hand, however, there is the added worry of accidentally brushing up against one of their trails with a non-protected part of your body, such as your arm or leg. Additionally, on occasion, the larger specimens can get quite scrappy and attempt to flee or attack.

For this reason, many gardeners and herbologists apply Flesh-Eating Slug Repellent to their crops preemptively, rather than wait until they have an infestation and need to remove them. Fortunately, slugs are most commonly attracted to fruits and vegetables like cabbage, cucumbers, beans, and peppers, so they are not a constant concern when talking about the diverse plants a herbologist grows in their plant beds or greenhouse.

Creepy Crawly Casting
Now that we have covered some specific nuisances, I want to add one more spell to your herbological toolbelt. This spell prevents a plant from attracting the attention of bugs in the first place, though it is not 100% foolproof. The spell creates a sort of invisible field around the plant, hiding its appearance and scent from those insects that might want it for a snack. For a comparison, it is almost like you are giving your plants a little invisibility cloak. There are, of course, some limitations. You’ll find it quite difficult to enchant your entire plot -- the willpower required increases significantly with the size of area enchanted -- so you may wish to apply it to each cluster of plants separately. Additionally, the charm will eventually dissipate, so you will need to recast. Beginners will likely need to do so at the turn of each season, though by the end of the season, the protection will be fading slightly and your plant may be only partially obscured from insects’ view.

Closing
My goodness, look at the time! I hadn’t realized how long that was going to take. Still, I’m glad we covered what we did. Pests like those can be truly troublesome when trying to take your first steps as a herbologist. However, now that you know quite a few of the common signs of infestation, as well as steps to take in each situation, you are much better prepared than before. I hope you enjoyed this week’s lesson, and I look forward to sharing the secrets of perfect pruning practices next week! Before you leave, you must complete the practical assignment; in front of each of you, I have assembled a few poor, blighted plants from various students’ plots with their permission. It will be your job to identify the pests that are afflicting them as well as attempt to salvage the poor little herbs! Additionally, you have an assignment for homework. Don’t forget to take one on your way out! 

Original lesson written by Professor Venita Wessex
Image credits here, here, here, here, here, here, and here